Spices in German and Austrian Cooking: Lebkuchen, Glühwein, Vanillekipferl

Quick answer: German and Austrian Christmas baking, Lebkuchen, mulled Glühwein and Vanillekipferl, rests on cinnamon, cloves, ginger and vanilla. Star anise, cardamom, nutmeg and coriander, also present in these recipes, remain common ingredients that we do not sell.

In Germany and Austria, Advent brings out pastries and drinks that are always carried by the same spices: Lebkuchen, a gingerbread found in dozens of regional forms, Glühwein, mulled wine served at Christmas markets, and Vanillekipferl, a small crescent-shaped biscuit born in Vienna. This page sets out the spices behind these classics, and the place held in them by Madagascar cinnamon, cloves, ginger and vanilla.

Lebkuchen, a gingerbread with no single blend

Lebkuchen covers a whole family of German gingerbreads whose composition varies widely from one region and one recipe to another: there is no standardised spice blend, and each baker often keeps their own proportions. The spices most often mentioned are cinnamon, which forms the largest part of the blend, cloves, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, aniseed and coriander. A German tradition, the "Neunerlei Gewürz" or nine-spice blend, brings together quatre-épices, cinnamon, ginger, aniseed, coriander, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves and fennel.

Three of these spices are part of our Madagascar range: cinnamon, cloves and ginger. Cardamom, nutmeg, aniseed, coriander and fennel remain spices we do not offer. A Lebkuchen made with only our spices therefore picks up just part of the traditional blend, through cinnamon, cloves and ginger. For a home-made version with our own spices, see our home-made gingerbread.

The amount of cinnamon also varies by region: in many German recipes it is present in large quantity, while it stays discreet, or even absent, in some Eastern or Northern European versions of the same gingerbread. This regional variation explains some of the taste differences between a Nuremberg Lebkuchen and one made further north.

Glühwein, mulled wine with cinnamon and cloves

Glühwein, German and Austrian mulled wine served at Christmas markets, is made by heating red wine with cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise and orange or lemon peel; some versions add cardamom or a vanilla pod. Cinnamon brings the warmth of the blend, cloves and star anise more marked winter notes, and citrus peel a fruity touch.

In our range, it is cinnamon, cloves and vanilla that have a place in it. Our recipe for mulled wine with Madagascar spices picks up this base of cinnamon and cloves, without the star anise or citrus peel that we do not offer.

Vanillekipferl, vanilla at the centre

Vanillekipferl is a small crescent-shaped shortbread biscuit born in Vienna, Austria; the earliest written recipe is credited to the Austrian Katharina Prato, from Graz. It takes its name from its shape, kipferl meaning crescent, and from its flavour, vanilla, which coats the biscuit under a layer of vanilla sugar after baking. Unlike Lebkuchen, this biscuit does not carry a whole spice blend: it is vanilla, and vanilla alone, that defines it.

Our vanilla sugar and our Madagascar Bourbon vanilla powder suit this use. For a neighbouring Viennese or German pastry made with cinnamon rather than vanilla, see our spices in Christmas baking.

Working with our Madagascar spices

Without star anise, cardamom, nutmeg, coriander or fennel, our range alone will not recreate a full Lebkuchen or Glühwein. It can, however, draw inspiration from what we offer: cinnamon, cloves, ginger and vanilla powder, the vanilla grown in the SAVA region and the spices in Vangaindrano, in the northeast and southeast of Madagascar. To choose between a whole and a ground clove, see whole or ground cloves, and for vanilla in baking, vanilla in bread and pastry baking.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a single spice blend for Lebkuchen?

No. Lebkuchen covers a whole family of German gingerbreads whose composition varies from one region and one recipe to another; cinnamon, cloves, ginger, cardamom and nutmeg are the spices most often mentioned.

Which spices are found in Glühwein?

Traditionally cinnamon, cloves, star anise and orange or lemon peel, sometimes cardamom or a vanilla pod.

Does Vanillekipferl contain any spices other than vanilla?

No, it is vanilla, in the form of vanilla sugar dusted on after baking, that defines this biscuit, with no other spice.

Can a German mulled wine be made with Madagascar spices?

It can draw inspiration from our cinnamon, cloves and vanilla, as our recipe for mulled wine with Madagascar spices does, but without the star anise or citrus peel.

The Vanille Désiré team

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Our terroirs

Where each spice comes from

Our map holds two points. Vanilla grows in the SAVA, in the north-east. Peppers, spices and combava come from Vangaindrano, in the south-east.

Madagascar · our terroirs SAVA Vangaindrano
Bourbon vanilla pods laid on marble Bourbon vanilla
Madagascar black peppercorns spread out Peppers and berries
Stacked cinnamon sticks, rolled bark Cinnamon
Whole dried cloves Clove
Turmeric powder and pieces of rhizome Turmeric
Ginger rhizome and fresh slices Ginger
Glass jar of Désiré combava powder Combava
Dried pili-pili chillies and a dish of crushed chilli Pili-pili chilli

Prepared Bourbon pods, standard grade.

Madagascar black pepper, whole peppercorns.

Dried bark, rolled into sticks.

Whole cloves.

Turmeric powder and cut rhizome.

Ginger rhizome and slices.

Our combava powder, in a glass jar.

Dried pili-pili, whole and crushed.

01
SAVANorth-east coast
02
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
03
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
04
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
05
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
06
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
07
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
08
VangaindranoSouth-east coast

Vanilla

Sambava, Antalaha, Vohémar, Andapa. Our vines climb there, on the north-east coast, and flowering runs from September to November.

Peppers and berries

Black pepper, white pepper, pink berries. Voatsiperifery is not planted: it is gathered from the vine, in the forest.

Cinnamon

Our cinnamon trees grow in agroforestry. The bark is taken from young branches in the rainy season, when the sap rises.

Clove

The clove is a flower bud, picked before it opens. It then dries until it hardens and turns deep brown.

Turmeric

The rhizome comes out of the ground, is washed then sliced. We dry it at low temperature: that is what preserves the colour and the curcuminoids.

Ginger

Same soil as turmeric, same botanical family. We offer it as a powder and in a grinder, depending on how you cook.

Combava

A small green citrus with a bumpy skin. Everything is in the zest, which we dry before grinding it into powder.

Pili-pili chilli

Picked bright red, with no green patch. It dries in the sun on racks, then is sorted by hand, fruit by fruit.

Two terroirs, one family. No broker between the plot and your jar.

Vanille Désiré · Madagascar

Photographs from our own catalogue. The outline of the island is a simplified drawing with no cartographic value. With us, vanilla comes only from the SAVA; peppers, spices and combava come from Vangaindrano.

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