Quatre-épices: composition and a homemade version

Quick answer: The classic quatre-épices blend combines black pepper, nutmeg, cloves and, depending on the recipe, ginger or cinnamon. Vanille Désiré does not sell nutmeg: a homemade version can be made with our cloves, our black pepper, and our ginger or cinnamon, ground together according to the flavour and use desired, savoury or sweet.

Quatre-épices is an old blend from French cuisine, used in charcuterie, slow-cooked dishes and some winter pastries. Its composition varies from one household to another, but four spices come up almost every time in recipes that mention it. This article presents the classic composition, then a version you can make yourself with Vanille Désiré's Madagascar spices.

A spice behind a blend's name

The name "quatre-épices" (four spices) can refer to two different things, which sometimes causes confusion. There is first a single spice: Jamaica pepper, or Pimenta dioica, a dried berry native to the Caribbean, also called allspice in English. Ground on its own, this berry already develops aromas of clove, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and pepper, a profile so complete that it inspired, in France, a blend of several spices to come close to it without having to import it. It is this second meaning, the French blend, that this article covers.

The classic composition

The French blend combines black pepper, nutmeg, cloves and ginger. Some versions replace the ginger with cinnamon, or add it alongside the other three spices: both variants exist in spice shops and cookery books. The proportions are not fixed once and for all; each household measures them to taste, generally with pepper and nutmeg as the base, and cloves and ginger or cinnamon as more discreet touches, as these are powerful spices.

This blend is old. French recipes from the fourteenth century already combine several of these spices in sauces for meat, and it was later formalised, under the name we know today, in nineteenth-century cookery books.

What our range allows, and what it does not cover

Vanille Désiré offers black pepper, cloves, ground ginger and cinnamon. Nutmeg is not part of our range: it is a common spice, available in shops, but never a Vanille Désiré product. A homemade version of quatre-épices can therefore be made with three of our spices, plus nutmeg bought elsewhere if you wish to stay close to the classic recipe, or without it if you prefer a simpler blend.

Composing your own version

A simple version comes down to three or four spices ground together:

  • black pepper, for the warm, peppery base;
  • cloves, for a warm, slightly sweet note, to be used sparingly;
  • ground ginger or cinnamon, for a rounder touch, both suiting savoury and sweet dishes alike;
  • nutmeg, if you choose to add it, bought separately.

Everyone adjusts the proportions to the intended use: more pepper and clove for charcuterie, more cinnamon for a winter cake. It is best to start with a small amount of clove, a powerful spice, taste, then adjust, rather than mixing everything at once.

Grinding your blend

Cloves are whole: they are ground in a mortar or a mill before being combined with the pepper and the ginger or cinnamon, which are already ground. For the technique and the care of the mortar, see how to grind wild pepper in a mortar or a mill. To compose other homemade blends from our spices, see also composing your own homemade spice blend: quatre-épices follows the same logic as Indian garam masala or Caribbean colombo, several spices ground together, in proportions that vary according to who prepares them.

If you are new to spices

Composing a blend already assumes having several spices to hand and knowing their strength. For beginners, it is best to first get familiar with each spice separately, taste its own intensity, before combining them in a quatre-épices or another homemade blend. See basic spices to start with.

Where to use it

Quatre-épices traditionally accompanies charcuterie (pâtés, terrines, rillettes), slow-cooked dishes, stews and some sauces for meat. In baking, it is found in gingerbread and in cold-season cakes. For a concrete example, see the recipe for homemade gingerbread, and for other spices associated with this time of year, spices for Christmas baking.

Storing your homemade blend

A blend that is already ground loses its aroma faster than a whole spice. Preparing a small amount at a time, in a sealed jar, away from light and moisture, keeps a blend that still has flavour when the time comes to use it. See storing your spices: jar, light, moisture.

Our spices for a homemade quatre-épices

Madagascar black pepper, Madagascar cloves, Madagascar ginger and Madagascar cinnamon together make up a good part of a homemade quatre-épices. Our family grows this pepper, these cloves, this ginger and this cinnamon in Vangaindrano, in south-eastern Madagascar, and we prepare them ourselves before shipping.

Frequently asked questions

Can you make a quatre-épices without nutmeg?

Yes. Many homemade versions are made with black pepper, cloves and ginger or cinnamon; nutmeg adds an extra note, but the blend remains balanced without it.

What is the difference between quatre-épices and Jamaica pepper?

Jamaica pepper, or Pimenta dioica, is a single spice whose aroma already recalls clove, cinnamon, ginger and pepper. French quatre-épices is a blend of several distinct spices created to come close to it.

In what proportions should the spices be mixed?

There is no fixed proportion: pepper and nutmeg are generally dosed as the base, and cloves and ginger or cinnamon as more discreet touches, then adjusted to taste.

Can ginger be replaced with cinnamon in the recipe?

Yes, both versions exist: some households use ginger, others cinnamon, or both spices together.

The Vanille Désiré team

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Our terroirs

Where each spice comes from

Our map holds two points. Vanilla grows in the SAVA, in the north-east. Peppers, spices and combava come from Vangaindrano, in the south-east.

Madagascar · our terroirs SAVA Vangaindrano
Bourbon vanilla pods laid on marble Bourbon vanilla
Madagascar black peppercorns spread out Peppers and berries
Stacked cinnamon sticks, rolled bark Cinnamon
Whole dried cloves Clove
Turmeric powder and pieces of rhizome Turmeric
Ginger rhizome and fresh slices Ginger
Glass jar of Désiré combava powder Combava
Dried pili-pili chillies and a dish of crushed chilli Pili-pili chilli

Prepared Bourbon pods, standard grade.

Madagascar black pepper, whole peppercorns.

Dried bark, rolled into sticks.

Whole cloves.

Turmeric powder and cut rhizome.

Ginger rhizome and slices.

Our combava powder, in a glass jar.

Dried pili-pili, whole and crushed.

01
SAVANorth-east coast
02
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
03
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
04
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
05
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
06
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
07
VangaindranoSouth-east coast
08
VangaindranoSouth-east coast

Vanilla

Sambava, Antalaha, Vohémar, Andapa. Our vines climb there, on the north-east coast, and flowering runs from September to November.

Peppers and berries

Black pepper, white pepper, pink berries. Voatsiperifery is not planted: it is gathered from the vine, in the forest.

Cinnamon

Our cinnamon trees grow in agroforestry. The bark is taken from young branches in the rainy season, when the sap rises.

Clove

The clove is a flower bud, picked before it opens. It then dries until it hardens and turns deep brown.

Turmeric

The rhizome comes out of the ground, is washed then sliced. We dry it at low temperature: that is what preserves the colour and the curcuminoids.

Ginger

Same soil as turmeric, same botanical family. We offer it as a powder and in a grinder, depending on how you cook.

Combava

A small green citrus with a bumpy skin. Everything is in the zest, which we dry before grinding it into powder.

Pili-pili chilli

Picked bright red, with no green patch. It dries in the sun on racks, then is sorted by hand, fruit by fruit.

Two terroirs, one family. No broker between the plot and your jar.

Vanille Désiré · Madagascar

Photographs from our own catalogue. The outline of the island is a simplified drawing with no cartographic value. With us, vanilla comes only from the SAVA; peppers, spices and combava come from Vangaindrano.

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